- 4 wheel cylinders
- 1 master cylinder
- 4 adjuster screws
- 8 shoe hold-down clips
- shoes for front and back
- master cylinder bleeder kit
- wheel cylinder bleeder kit
- 2 parking brake strut springs
I didn't order new drums because the existing drums look like they're in good condition. Besides, if it turns out they're not (out of round or whatever), those are REALLY easy to replace.
I picked up all the parts today and started with the master cylinder since that's the head end of all of this (and actually it's what I believe is bad). Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this process. There's tons of videos out there on Youtube on how to do this stuff (how do you think I learned? I have no idea what I'm doing except for what I watched on Youtube). But here's some of the basic steps I took to remove the master cylinder on my Jeep DJ5.
First, I pulled the battery and tray out. They sit right above where my master cylinder is mounted in a little box just off to the side of the frame rail. There were 4 bolts/nuts holding it in. Two in the firewall, one on the fender, and one on a large bracket that goes down to the frame.
Once the battery stuff was gone, I disconnected the brake pedal from the cylinder strut bar. It was just held in by a cotter pin and washer. The strut is kinda semi-permanently held in to the master cylinder by a one-way retention ring with 4 fingers on it. I didn't know that though until I got it totally out and on my workbench. So basically, you'll have to leave the strut and the rubber boot that covers the joint on the master cylinder until you remove it.
I then removed the two bolts that hold the master cylinder into the box. Then disconnected the brake lines with a 1/2" wrench. They're basically just rigid metal lines that are flared at the end and a compression nut. Once everything was disconnected, I was able to pull the master cylinder out, feeding the strut through the hole as it came out on a diagonal.
Once I drained and disposed of the fluid in the reservoir, I had to get that rubber boot and strut out of it to be used on the new master cylinder. The rubber boot is just held on by a lip around the edge of the opening. Just needed to lightly pry it off with a flat head screwdriver and then shimmy it down the strut so it's out of the way.
The strut is held in by a 4-fingered retention ring. My first thought was that I was going to have to find proper tools to carefully remove the two retention rings (there was also an outer ring too). Then I realized... I'm not keeping this damn thing. Why do I have to be careful with it?
So I took a flat head screw driver and bent the four fingers down which freed up enough space to pull the strut bar out. I cleaned it up with a wire brush and set it aside.
I put my new master cylinder in my vice just like in the videos and attempted to use the bleeder kit I had from Napa, but the kit was missing one of the properly sized connectors so I did the best I could with what was there, and then capped off the ports and put the lid back on. Check Youtube videos for details on how to do this.
Brought it back up to the Jeep and re-installed it. I won't go through all the details, as I had to do it 3 times before I got it right... but, make sure that you hook up the brake lines in first as the must be threaded in straight or it won't work right. I hooked em up, then bolted the master cylinder back in, and then tightened everything down.
I won't be re-bleeding the cylinder on the car tonight (you need a buddy to do it, and my wiffy has already gone to bed). Will have to install the front seat temporarily to do it so you can press on the brake pedal to do the bleeding. That's all for now. Next is to bleed the master cylinder and then start to disassemble and reassemble all the drum stuff. And more bleeding.